One day a couple of weeks ago I went looking for the grave of Donizetti's brother Guiseppe.  Apparently he lived an incredibly prosperous life as a court composer in Istanbul.  As I neared my elusive destination - all I got to see were the tops of a very lush garden protected by Vatican walls - I came across a building with the most spectacular window!  When I saw it I gasped.  Because here was a truly great example of - well, decomposition.